Window Draught Proofing That Still Opens
Draught proofing is cheap and quick, but the window still has to open and the room still has to breathe.
Find the draught with a damp hand or a lit incense stick before buying any strip. Foam strips suit uneven gaps, while brush strips suit sliding sashes and windows that open often. Start by writing down what the room must do, not what it looks like on a shop shelf.
Measure the space first
Clean the frame and let it dry, because adhesive strips fail on dust and old paint. Apply the strip to the frame rather than the moving sash so the window still closes cleanly. The cheapest option is usually the one that matches the measurements you already took.
Choose the simplest fix
Check the hinges and the lock, since a loose hinge leaves a gap that no strip will close. Adjust the strike plate or the handle if the window does not pull tight, because the gap is the problem. Small rooms punish deep furniture and reward anything that uses height instead of floor area.
Before buying anything, walk the room and note the measurements, the light, and the route people actually take. Most home projects fail because the plan was made in a shop rather than in the room itself. A five-minute survey saves a return trip and often changes the choice completely. Keep the receipt until the item is fitted and working, and photograph the finished result.
Leave trickle vents open, as a sealed room without ventilation collects moisture and grows mould. A fix that needs a ladder or a special tool every week will stop being used within a month.
A short checklist before you start
- Find the draught before buying strips
- Fit the strip to the frame
- Keep trickle vents open
- Test the window after fitting
Watch the moisture and the fixings
Do not block a permanent ventilator or an air brick, which keeps the room healthy. Fit a brush strip to the bottom of a sliding sash to stop the worst of the draught without jamming the window. Write the plan down and give it a deadline, because home jobs expand to fill the free time available.
Use a removable secondary layer on a single-glazed window if the frame cannot take a strip. Check the letterbox and the keyhole as well, because a window draught often enters through an unsealed door.
Make it easy to maintain
Test the window after fitting by opening and closing it several times, since a strip that jams will be removed. Replace the strip when it hardens or compresses, usually every few years. Buy the fittings before the furniture, since the fixing decides whether the idea is possible at all.
If the first attempt does not solve the problem, change one variable rather than starting over. Home improvements are usually a sequence of small corrections, not a single perfect decision. Give each change a week before judging it, and write down what you did so the next adjustment starts from evidence rather than memory. Stop when the room works, not when it looks like a catalogue.
Keep the window airing in mild weather, because a warm sealed room and a cold frame make condensation worse. A curtain lined and closed at dusk reduces the chill from glass even without changing the seal. Draught proofing works when it is targeted at real gaps, not when it seals every opening in the room. If you want the wider picture, read Choosing Flooring for a Rental Flat before you decide.
For the underlying guidance, see the InterNACHI home maintenance guidance.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best draught proofing for windows?
Brush or foam strips for opening windows, and hinged seals for casements. The best one matches the gap and the window type.
Can I draught proof a window and still open it?
Yes. Fit the strip to the frame and leave the moving parts clear, then test the window several times.
Will draught proofing cause condensation?
Only if ventilation is blocked. Keep trickle vents and air bricks open, and air the room regularly.
How much does draught proofing cost?
Usually a few pounds per window. It is one of the cheapest ways to make a room feel warmer.